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Sunday, August 29, 2010

Whirled World, Part VI: London

The Romantic I Was Meant to Be



(Part I, Part II, Part III, Part IV, & Part V)

I knew that I wouldn't have a lot of time to spend with Phil when I returned to London. I was getting back late on June 29th, and was leaving early on July 1st. And unfortunately, he had a writing deadline: the draft of the television episode he was writing was due on the 1st. So June 30th -- our one day together -- would be the day when he'd be hurrying to implement all of the last minute notes handed to him by the production company. And additionally, Phil's new roommate was moving in on the morning of the 1st, around the time I was supposed to be heading for the airport.

Phil seemed stressed. It was clear that my visit was happening at the worst possible time for him. I told him not to worry. After all, I know my way around the city, and I'm rather self-sufficient. I'd take as much of him as I could get, but I didn't want to make any demands on him that would throw off his world.

The truth, of course, was that I'd already said my goodbyes to London. More than anything, the reason I was excited to return was that I'd have more time to say goodbye to him.

My flight from Milan to Gatwick mysteriously got in twenty minutes early. Around 8:00pm. I texted Phil to let him know. He seemed ecstatic. But I told him that we had some things to take care of before we left the airport, and it would still be a while before I was on my way.

Two-Shots-Up and I had taken turns paying for our reservations to things like hostels and boats (some in pounds, some in euros, and some in dollars), and had to get everything evened out. In order to do this, we had to pay for the internet at side-by-side airport computers, and trust each other's math. It took awhile, but it seemed like a good idea to get it all out of the way. In the end, I think she owed me about 3 Euro, and I told her to just forget about it.

But then the second problem: somewhere in Greece, Two-Shots-Up had lost her mobile phone. And she was going to be staying in her friend's flat in London while said friend was out of town. And she couldn't get in touch with the friend's flatmates (any of the ten -- yes, ten -- of them). And my mobile, which we were both relying on, was low on both batteries and credit (I had a pay-as-you-go phone). She was worried about getting to the place and being locked out. I said I'd go with her if necessary, or that she might be able to come with me. She felt guilty for keeping me away from Phil. But eventually, she got in touch with the right person, and I began the tube journey to Phil's place alone... two hours after I'd landed.

He said he'd meet me at Angel station. I got there first. I'd taken a train, a train, a Milan subway, a bus, a plane, the Gatwick Express, and a couple of tube lines to get to him. The last water that had touched my hair was the Mediterranean Sea. I was frustrated from the stressed conversations with Two-Shots-Up. Sweaty. Dirty. Tired.

And then he walked down the street. And I nearly cried.

He had dressed up to meet me. He looked incredibly handsome, even more than I remembered. And when he hugged me, I breathed deeply. He smelled so nice.

And I felt like I was home. My journey had led me back to him. Back to his arms.

I don't think I knew how much I'd missed him until I saw him.

He helped me with the luggage that I'd managed all over Europe. Part of me felt silly for that, but mostly grateful. As we walked to his flat, I just kept staring at him. I had to keep noticing the moments as they were happening. I had to make sure they were real.

He kissed me in the elevator. And he led me into his flat.

I put down my suitcase in the hallway. And I saw rose petals.

Yes, rose petals.

The kind of thing I'd normally laugh at. I've never been a romantic. I roll my eyes at cheesy things. I don't watch chick flicks and yearn for a man to treat me like a princess. I actually told my first boyfriend about how I thought it was condescending that he insisted on opening doors for me. And I usually forget when it's Valentine's Day.

But in that moment...

I realized that I am a romantic.

I just never knew it.

Maybe it's one more example of me talking myself into wanting things I have, and talking myself out of things I think I won't have. Maybe the reason I never wanted romance is because I thought I'd never had it.

But I had it. And I hugged him. And I cried.

The rose petals were everywhere. And roses around his room. An ice bucket with champagne, and two champagne flutes (all of which he had purchased that morning in preparation for my arrival). And a plate of strawberries (echoing the memory of grapes that he had once suggested we should feed to each other in a park "in a decadent manner").

I thanked him. He held me. And he said he had one more surprise for me.

He had finished the draft of his episode early so that he'd get to spend more time with me.

And I felt... lucky.

He told me that we didn't have to do the whole champagne and strawberries thing if I didn't want to. He had a feeling I'd be tired, and I could just go to bed if I wanted. Or we could watch a movie. Or talk. Whatever I wanted to do. It was up to me.

So I told him that I wanted to take a shower. (Seriously, it sucks to feel gross when someone is pouring affection over you.)

Once clean, we talked. And ate strawberries. And I gave him at least one of his presents from my travels.

I don't remember what I gave him when, in retrospect. (It's been two months since this happened... can you blame me for being foggy on the details?)

I know I gave him a small elephant statue from Delphi (a reference to the movie Frankie and Johnny, which we had discussed). And a snow globe from Riomaggiore (which is quite funny, as it doesn't snow there... and was a reference to the play we'd met at, The Real Thing). And a silly hat. And some Italian pesto. And a funny postcard I found that blended political sentiment with a safe sex message: "YES WE CONDOM!" (He put it on his fridge.)

In the morning, we went and got breakfast at a little café down the street from his place. We sat outside. I was happy. And simultaneously calm and excited.

We went to the Study Centre to retrieve the two bags I'd left there during my travels. I saw Deron (one of the men whom I thought was interested in me... but I did not reciprocate feelings for). I tried to rush Phil out of that situation, grabbing my own suitcase and saying, "No, I can get it. I'm stronger than you." I meant it jokingly, but realized my error as soon as it had come out of my mouth. (Word to the wise: NEVER emasculate a man like that. I apologized profusely, but Phil is still giving me a hard time about that one...) But at least I got us away from Deron before Phil and I had to have the "who are we to each other" explanatory exchange... We hadn't had it with each other yet, and I seriously didn't want to have to answer the awkward question that I felt coming from Deron.

I said goodbye to Blake as Phil waited downstairs. I brought him olive paté from Cinque Terre, which he seemed pleased with. I gave him an awkward hug, and told him I was sure I'd see him in Florida.

After dragging myself back to his place, Phil and I got sandwiches at a Caffé Nero to eat on our way. He told me that the strange soft electric violet-blue on the bags was his favorite color (so I saved the bag and took it with me back to the States to try to identify it, which is NOT the blue on the website... the closest I've come so far is Majorelle Blue). We ate on a bench by the Millennium Bridge as he complained about work. It felt very couple-y.



We walked over the bridge and went to the Tate Modern at my request. I had been in 2003, but somehow had not made it in the six weeks of this summer. I got to visit my favorite Dalí. Phil made friends with a strange sculpture. We saw great some Jackson Pollocks and a Monet. And we were both thoroughly confused by some of the art. (read: "art")

(Me with "Metamorphosis of Narcissus" by Salvador Dalí)

(Phil being goofy with a sculpture he liked.)

We ended up in an exhibit called "EXPOSED: Voyeurism, Surveillance and the Camera". It was seriously cool. I loved the celebrity room, which did a great job of showing how sick and obsessive we are as a culture. The room about sexual voyeurism was a bit of a turn-on, but Phil went off missing around that point, so I never made any move toward becoming an exhibitionist in a room of voyeurs. I found him around the war surveillance tapes and photographs.

(Stupid accidental photo-bomber guy ruining a perfectly good picture.)

On the way back we stopped at a cute milkshake place. I can't remember what candy-bar concoction I ended up with. It might've been Snickers. I just remember that it wasn't as good as Phil's cookie dough shake.

And then the calls and e-mails started coming. Despite his efforts with getting the draft in early, Phil was being harassed by the Big Bad Company. They began bombarding him with notes about the script. I told him not to worry. I had to repack my suitcases in a way that would make them all under the plane weight limits, and this would give me time to do that. He seemed amazed that I was okay with him having to work. But I was.

I dressed sexy that night. I kept on the blue and white polka-dotted dress that I'd acquired from the Hot Topic-inspired section of Camdentown that I'd been wearing all day. I added thigh-high hold-up stockings with a sexy open weave pattern in the back and lace tops. I put on glamorous makeup. I held back my hair with a white rose pin. And I put on the killer lace-up heels that I'd been dying to wear. I looked seriously hot.

Phil wanted to go out to a restaurant initially. I can't remember why we didn't. (Maybe I looked too hot?) I remember ordering a pizza online, and then going out to get mixers for the Raspberry Stoli I'd gotten at an airport duty-free shop. We chatted with his roommates. We watched an episode of 30 Rock. We ate pizza.

We played some sort of drinking game version of Scrabble. I got a bingo on my first play, making the score about 15 to 75. Phil wasn't thrilled. I'm not an expert in Scrabble, but I played online with my coworkers in Chicago a lot as a way of making the day go by faster. So on an on average play, I aim to get 20-40 points. Phil was aiming to get over 10. We quit about halfway through the game due to his increasing frustration. Luckily, he was in a pretty good mood despite that.

We had considered going to a bar or a club, but we never did. We just stayed in and enjoyed each other's company.

Eventually, we had a conversation. A "let's be realistic" conversation. A "this isn't going to work" conversation. An "it's been fun while it's lasted" conversation. While we lay next to each other on his bed.

I didn't cry. I knew it was coming. I couldn't help but thinking of the conversation I'd had with Brian, while laying next to him on his bed, in which he said he didn't love me anymore. Or the conversation where Michael came to my place, sat on my bed, and promptly dumped me.

(I really need to stop having relationship conversations on beds. They don't turn out well for me.)

He was right, and I knew it. This couldn't be. It was too hard. It was too scary. It was too unlikely. It would end in heartbreak. So I smiled and said it was alright, and that I knew this had to be how it ended. I was glad that I'd gotten to spend as much time with him as I had.

My subconscious brain took it out on him with a vicious attack of flying fists in my sleep.

We got up in the morning. We ate cereal with bananas. He made me one last cup of tea.

Phil let his new roommate into the building with his belongings in tow. And he escorted me out of it, lugging half of mine.

We stopped at the post office so that I could get stamps for the postcards I'd been writing one at a time on my trip, but had as of yet to send. Phil promised to mail them for me. He asked permission to read them on his way back home. I granted it, feeling silly... After all, I had quoted him on a couple of the postcards without crediting him. I had quoted the text message he sent me the day after we met.

Phil
06/06/2010
8:28pm
Wouldnt it be nice to bottle this feeling ... X


That is, after all, what I wanted: to bottle the feeling of London, and take it with me. Not just Phil, but all of it. The circus friends who gave me hope. The liberation I got from seeing Hair. The sense of culture everywhere, and the appreciation for art that everyone seemed to have. The history and the ambience. The cold rainy days, and the sweaty summer ones. The chaos of the markets, and the solitude of the river. City-watching from Greenwich, and people-watching on the Tube. I want to drink it, inhale it, and bathe in it. I want to carry it with me wherever I am.

He brought me to Paddington station so that I could catch the Heathrow Express to the airport. We hugged. We kissed. We thanked each other. We stared into each others eyes with the kind of silence that says more than words. The train was there waiting for me with open doors. I knew I could take a later one. I could postpone this and drag it out. But I knew it would be just as hard to say goodbye in another 15 minutes as it was then. Besides, he had more notes on his script from the Back-Breaking Creeps, and they wanted him to get in touch with them ASAP.

We got my bags on board. I stood on the train saying a last goodbye as he stood on the platform, inches away from me.

And suddenly, I felt lightness. I looked at him, and I wasn't afraid or sad anymore. I smiled. And I laughed. And I felt hope.

"This isn't the end," I told him, still smiling. "I know there's more."

The sliding door closed between us.

He waved. I walked to a seat. I watched him walk up the stairs, texting. He stopped on the landing and looked back at the train. I wondered which of his editors he was writing, although I secretly hoped that he was actually writing to me. As the train pulled out of the station, he stood there waving to me.

And then I got his text message.

Phil
07/01/2010
12:12pm
We just had a battlestar moment! Like the episode with starbuck interrogating that cylon at the end. But you got it. I will miss you so much. Im supposed to be a writer but words have failed me. you are a beautiful human being and my life has been so enriched because of you. X

And I cried.

I don't know why I turned into such an insane crying lunatic over this whole situation. Crying over a boy whom I'd known for three weeks and had in reality spent very little time with. But he watched Battlestar Galactica at my recommendation and referenced an episode in his text (proving that he's the very sort of geeky, awkward Sci-Fi lover that I adore). And he just... *sigh*

Angela (to Phil)
07/01/2010
12:22pm
You have made me the sentimental romantic that I never thought I'd be. You are the magic that I thought movies lied about. I found a piece of myself in you.


I made it to the airport. I got through security. I noticed that I had a long, long time before my flight was taking off. And then I sat down on the floor near the entrance of the British Airways exclusive-sounding club, and bummed Wi-Fi long enough to write an e-mail to Phil.

Why e-mails are better than text messages:

1. They don't cost 10p every time you want to send one. (which is a pain when you're down to 76p in credit on your mobile)
2. You can send them even in airports with no mobile phone reception. (if you can bum Wi-Fi off of the neighboring Galleries Lounge with your handy dandy laptop)
3. You're not limited to 160 characters (or whatever ridiculous amount they put on there).
4. You can type with your eyes closed and let your brain do the talking, instead of trying to hunt down which numbers correspond to various letters and pieces of punctuation, and calculate how many times you have to press them (or wait between pressing them).
5. You can attach songs. :)
5. Less guilt if there's lag time between the received message and the response to it.

That said, even now that I have a better medium on which to communicate my emotions, I don't really know what to say.

Part of me wants to say goodbye, but I think we've taken care of that.

Part of me wants to say all the things that I almost did and said, but didn't... Like how I considered making some grand gesture, like jumping off the train, interrupting the text message you were composing as you smiled and paced on the stairs, kissing you until time didn't matter any more, and not caring if all my luggage went off to Heathrow without me. (That idea, by the way, is insanely uncharacteristic of an OCD worrier like me... so the fact that it even went through my head shows how much of an effect you've had on my psyche.)

Part of me wants to express joy over every text message and e-mail you've sent me, including (and especially) that last one.

Part of me wants to type up every moment I've spent with you, just so that there's a more permanent record of our time together than the memories I keep in my heart (which will surely grow more idealized and hazy with time).

Part of me wants to recite every thing about you that I think is wonderful. Not only because I want you to know what you are to me, but also because I think you need someone to tell you how fantastic you are. As much as you say that you're big, busy and important, and as many times as you slide remarks into conversations about your being intelligent and talented, I still think my conviction regarding your favorable qualities is stronger than yours.

Most of me wants to thank you. But that almost seems silly. You know how much happiness you've brought me over the last couple of weeks. If you don't know, then you haven't been paying attention.

By the time the woman came to check my ticket, my cheeks were tear-stained. But they weren't tears of sorrow; rather, they were tears of joy. And I thanked God for bringing us together.

I wasn't wrong that night when I said that I thought my life had just changed. You have changed me. You have made me feel interesting, intelligent, lovable, and beautiful. You have opened me up, given me hope, and showed me that sometimes life really does play out in a romantic and cinematic fashion. My life was good before I met you, but you turned it into something magical. I'm the protagonist at the very beginning of a story, and I've been waking up every morning excited for the next chapter.

Today wasn't really a goodbye. I couldn't possibly say goodbye that easily to someone who has infiltrated my life the way that you have. We will meet again. We will speak soon. We will be able to write whenever we wish. And we will continue to help each other out on our journeys through life. I'm sure of all of that.

Good luck with the script. Good luck with the new roommate. Good luck with the Ball-Busting Cankers, Big Bad Criminals, Beastly Barbaric Cannibals, Bane Belligerent Cows, and the Brow-Beating Cursed.

I wish you all good things.
All good things come to an end.

~A~


I attached Shawn Colvin's cover of "Every Little Thing He Does Is Magic". He had been magic to me from the beginning. It seemed fitting.

I sat on the floor of Heathrow and pouted for awhile. I decided I wanted a fun, silly, pointless chick lit book to cheer me up on the flight, so I went through the (frequently warned against, but actually usually successful) process of choosing one by its cover. I ate a banana. I goofed off on the internet. I wrote a couple more postcards. I consoled myself. I started reading my chick lit book. And I nearly missed my plane, because it turned out I was in the completely wrong terminal, and ended up running like a madwoman even though I'd gotten to the airport with hours to spare.

As I ran with my luggage, part of me wanted to miss the plane. Have an excuse to stay just a little bit longer. But no. I'd inconvenienced him enough. He had work to do. He had a life to live. And I had... Connecticut, I guess.

The line to get on the plane was long and going at the speed of honey, so I made it in plenty of time. I saw my classmate O.D. on the plane, already asleep, two rows ahead of me.

I couldn't stop thinking about Phil. Would it be overkill to send a text (with some of the last remaining change on my phone) to tell him I had sent an e-mail? Was that stereotypical over-reacting girl stalker behavior?

Angela (to Phil)
07/01/2010
3:39pm
Boarded. Sent you a frivolous, superfluous, sappy, pretentious, honest email. Still not wholly convinced that I'll be waking up without you tomorrow.

Probably stereotypical over-reacting girl stalker behavior. But I decided I didn't care. I sent it. And my phone buzzed quickly with a text from him.

Phil
07/01/2010
3:39pm
Have read it and replied with an equally if not more sappy response. bon voyage my darling. x

I felt better.

I pulled out my book with the cute cover art and generically chick-lit title. The one that I thought would be a light-hearted read for my trans-Atlantic journey. As it turns out, Single in the City is about a 26-year-old who moves from Connecticut to London, and then falls in love. I might've known that if I had picked it for something other than the cover art, but as it was, I had picked it up by coincidence. Having woken up in London that morning, and knowing I'd be going to bed in Connecticut that night, nearly-26-year-old Angela got a little emotional.

It's actually an entertaining book. But it wasn't ideal timing for me to be reading about adventures in the place that I was unhappily leaving.

So I put the book down and turned on the television implanted in the seat-back in front of me. I found a limited selection of mediocre entertainment to choose from. (Yes, I'm aware how spoiled that complaint makes me sound.) And since I wasn't in the mood to watch the anime that had taken over several channels (or to watch the latter half of the movie Valentine's Day, which, by the way, seems to be just as bad as you might imagine), I ended up tuning in to Dear John.

I don’t watch a lot of films in that über-chick sappy romance genre. It’s not my thing. If it’s a romantic comedy (especially one that’s mostly comedy), that’s one thing (e.g. The 40 Year Old Virgin). Dramas that contain romantic elements would also be on the list of exceptions (e.g. Atonement). I’ll even accept musical theatre (e.g. Moulin Rouge). But romance for romance sake? Not something I seek out.

Additionally, I find Amanda Seyfried overrated. And I had heard nothing but bad things about Channing Tatum.

So really the only situation in which there would be a chance of me seeing this movie was the scenario involving me being strapped into a seat of a pressure-controlled cabin for 9 hours with limited options for entertainment.

In spite of my preconceived notions of how much of a disaster this movie would surely turn out to be, I watched the entire thing (minus the first few minutes, during which I was desperately seeking a better alternative on the other 12 channels, to no avail).

Why?

Because it was about two people who met, spent two weeks together, and were separated.

(Direct quotation from the movie: “Two weeks together. That’s all it took. Two weeks for me to fall for you.”)

If I had seen that movie a month ago, I would’ve either laughed or rolled my eyes before turning off the television and choosing to attempt the impossible act of sleeping on an airplane seat.

It’s too cheesy. Too naïve. Too Hollywood. Too romantic-movie-plot. Too unrealistic.

But sometimes the universe laughs at us, and life becomes like the movies. After the time I’d spent with Phil, I couldn’t turn that movie off. It was too connected to my immediate experience. It was one more coincidence in the collection that had surrounded my time with him. So I watched it.

(Also, the movie contains a conversation in which the girl says that she doesn’t smoke, rarely drinks, avoids cursing, and implies that she might very well be a virgin. After that, there was no way I could stop watching.)

I know I wrote this in my e-mail to him, but I think it bears repeating: being around Phil turned me into more of a romantic than I ever remember being in the past.

I won't pretend it was a good movie. It wasn't. And I won't pretend the story told in the movie was ours. But it did make me want to write him a letter. I started composing one on the plane.

And as I wrote, I realized how much of myself I had discovered in my time abroad. I found a little piece of myself in the mountains of Delphi. I found a little piece of myself as I wept at the Parthenon. I found a piece with Stratos the Greek man, who gave me wisdom and confidence. A piece in Santorini, where I found my sense of adventure and lost my fear. A piece in Cinque Terre, where I learned how to vacation. As I'd said in my text to him, I found a piece of myself in Phil: the romantic that I never knew was there.

And then, there's London... I found more of myself in London than I knew was lost. In fact, there was so much of me over there that I couldn't fit it all into my suitcases that night when I sat rearranging their contents on Phil's living room floor as he worked. I took a lot from London, but I think I need to go back and be with the rest of my pieces. I think going back to London might be the only way to be whole.

Eventually, the plane landed. I had an awkward conversation with O.D. at baggage claim (during which he failed to mention that he had gotten engaged since the last time I'd seen him). I got in the car with my parents. And I talked about Phil the whole way home. And the whole time, I kept reminding them that Phil and I were not dating. We were not doing the long-distance thing. Even though we fit so well together. Even though I was crazy about him. Even though he was my favorite thing in the world at that very moment.

I only half-believed myself.

When I got back to my parents' house, I read the e-mail Phil had mentioned in his text. He had sent me his blog post about the day we met.

He warned me that it might be uncomfortable or weird to read it, just as it had been when I'd read him a few posts from my own blog a couple of weeks before. But that he was sending it in its entirety anyway, as it was the truth of his experience.

I don't think he'd like me attaching it here in its entirety, as he's a far more private person than I am. But here's a little tiny bit of it:

It was a hot June day and in the lobby I noticed a stunning woman in an elegant blue summer dress. She looked stunningly glamorous – dark flowing hair, strikingly beautiful features, terrific figure…there was an air of the exotic about. I thought that she was perhaps Brazilian, Mexican or Spanish. She reminded me a little of the girl that Chandler meets (again, ironically, at the Theatre, to see Joey in the musical Freud!) in the first season of Friends, and whom he is convinced is a million miles out of his league. She seemed to be from another entirely more glamorous universe. There was I in my khaki combat shorts and cheap checked shirt, looking like a German tourist.

Anyway, when I eventually took my seat (on the aisle, naturally) to my great surprise this stunning creature was in the seat next to mine. Futhermore, somewhat astonishingly, she was on her own (I would imagine her to be accompanied at all times by some Greek God type figure, some bronzed Adonis called Marco who has been her boyfriend since birth). Despite her good looks, she seemed warm and friendly. At the interval, she even sparked up a conversation with me about the play. (On a side note, ‘The Real Thing’ is one of my favourites, and appropriately enough it deals with the various romantic entanglements of a passionate playwright – [...] art and life bleed into one another). I discover – of course – that she was

A) An actress

B) American

C) Going back to the USA in less than two weeks


(For the record, he did not look like a German tourist.)

He was right: he had written some things that were hard for me to read. That it was an adjustment for him to be dating a virgin. That he's learned his lesson about long-distance relationships. That he'd be an idiot to not have spotted a pattern in his love-life (of dating Americans and the heartbreak that follows).

But there were other parts that made me melt.

"It was like the world stopped. She leant over to me, a stunned look in her eye, and told me that she felt like her life just changed. It was one of the best days of my life. My romantic streak [...] had been re-awakened."
After reading it, my heart fluttered. I wanted to get on a plane and go right back. I wanted to Skype him right that very moment. Even though the difficulties were there and there was an ocean between us, it still seemed like maybe things could work.

I had hope.

Maybe it was silly. Maybe it was stupid. Maybe it was dangerous.

But it was there. Hope.

I guess that's just the romantic in me.




May you find the hopeful romantic in you,

~A~


P.S. I love you all. Thank you for reading. Thank you for the comments and encouragement. Thank you for your love.

P.P.S. The Whirled World series is over, but this story certainly isn't. I have so much to tell you. Some good, some bad, and all of it surely to be long-winded.

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Whirled World, Part V: Cinque Terre

Librarian, Italian, and Attention-Whore

(The main street of Riomaggiore)

(Part I, Part II, Part III, & Part IV)

We made it to Athens. We caught our plane to Milan. We somehow found our way from the Milan airport to our Milan hostel. And when we got there (to a room that had a bidet about 3 feet from our bed) we ordered a pizza, and promptly passed out. As soon as we woke up, we began our trek to Cinque Terre.

I am ethnically Italian. I don't know how in touch with my Italian side I am, as that side of my family emigrated more recently than the other side. I'm around more "Italian-American" customs than "Italian" ones. My mother is full-blooded Italian (all four of her great-grandparents came over from Italy; her parents were born here). Her parents knew how to speak Italian (although I'm not sure how fluent they were), but they used it as a code language (you know how some parents spell words out so that their kids won't know what they're talking about? My grandparents used Italian for those purposes), so she never learned it. My father, who is not Italian, studied in Florence in undergrad and speaks more Italian pretty well. Yes that's right: ironically, my non-Italian father speaks the language that my Italian mother does not. (Did I just use the word "ironically" correctly? Because I think I may have, but I'm never quite confident on that matter.)

So yes. I'm Italian. And I took three semesters of Italian in undergrad. And I spent a semester abroad in Rome.

Despite this, my Italian is practically non-existent. And unlike most places in Italy, the people in the train stations on our route did not speak English (nor did most of the locals with whom we attempted to communicate). So I was incredibly proud of the fact that I managed to speak to people in my extremely-limited Italian, and figure things out just fine. Apparently, I understand a lot more of it than I thought I did. And I used some "creative language skills" that I learned from German classes in high school, meaning that I circled what I wanted to say until people understood it. When I didn't know the word for "pathetic", I used the word for "sad". Apparently it was completely grammatically incorrect, but they understood what I meant well enough to correct me.

(In one of my German classes, we could get extra-credit on a test if we explained something that we didn't have the vocabulary for. Example: The question asked us to explain the process of changing a tire. We didn't know the words for "tire", "jack", "flat", or "wrench", but we did know the words like "car", "bad", "road", "lift", and "circle". If you could fake it well enough that someone might be able to catch your drift, then you got extra credit. Really quite a brilliant method of teaching students to think on their feet in another language, in retrospect...)

Cinque Terre is a group of five small seaside towns. You can hike between them, and it's about 12km total. We ended up staying in Riomaggiore, which is referred to as the "last" of the five towns (although it seems to me that it could be the first if headed from the other direction... Whatever.)

It's gorgeous. The main part of the town is just a street. It leads down to a very small little dock, and giant rocks that people lay on to get sun. And there's a very small rock beach. It's quieter than some of the other towns, which I liked. It was my favorite of the towns (well, the four I saw... we never made it to Corniglia).

(The dock end of Riomaggiore.)

We were in a hostel room for 9, which was our first non-private hostel on the trip. There was a group of three Aussie girls: Kate, Katie, and Emma. There were a couple of Kiwis (from New Zealand, if you're not up on the lingo), who were traveling with some boys in a neighboring room. There were a couple of girls from Idaho who were also traveling with some boys in the neighboring room.

The first night, Two-Shots-Up and I got some pasta from a cute little shop. She also got focaccia, which is an Italian bread that I had introduced her to in the train station in Genoa. Then we went to the rocks and watched the sunset.

(Best sunset picture I've taken yet. Seriously, check that.)

We went out to a little bar. We got hit on by some horrifying men. And by the end of the night we were chatting with a very drunk Kiwi (who was traveling with our hostel-mates), a geeky young guy from the USA, and an older guy from Manchester, England who was there leading a cycling tour. When the bar was closing, someone suggested that we should get some wine and head down to the rocks at the pier. So we did.

(Two-Shots-Up and Ryan. I think you can tell what she thought of him. But you certainly can't tell just how WASTED he was.)

On our way there, Ryan the Drunken Kiwi pulled me aside and tried to hit on me. Now, if you'll remember my history, I don't have a great track record of knowing when people are hitting on me. So what tipped me off?

RYAN: Hey, you and I have some business to discuss.
ANGELA: We do?
RYAN: Yeah. You've been flirting with me all night.
ANGELA: No, I haven't.
RYAN: Yeah you have. Looking at me through those glasses of yours. You look like a naughty librarian.
ANGELA: I'm going down to the rocks.
RYAN: No, no, no. You can't go down. We have other plans.
ANGELA: What?
RYAN: Can you tell me I have books overdue, and that if I can't pay the fines then I'll have to make it up to you? You know, sexually?
ANGELA: No.
RYAN: I've been a very bad boy. I was too loud. And it's supposed to be silent.
ANGELA: I'm leaving.
RYAN: NO! I mean, I really like you. And I just want to take you home, cuddle with you, kiss you, and feel your boobies.


Most of that conversation is probably paraphrased (as it was a while ago, and also I was speaking with a drunk guy who had a thick dialect, and wasn't exactly easy to understand)... but that last line? Verbatim. (Two points for honesty?)

Eventually, I just gave up on trying to reason with him and started walking toward the rocks with the others.

On our way there, we passed a group of guys. Ryan ran up to them yelling in the worst fake Italian accent you've ever heard:

"ARE-A YOU-A ITALIAN-O?"

My immediate reaction was to use a good Italian accent (I'm Italian, and I study accents in grad school... so it was decent) to say, "Don't listen to him. He's not an Italian. He's drunk."

One of the guys from the group came up to me, speaking with a strong Irish dialect. "Are you Italian then?"

"Yes, I am," I replied, still using my fake accent. It wasn't a lie. I'm half Italian.

"That's great, isn't it. Are you from here, then?"

"Not exactly from here..."

"Well, I guess prob'ly no one's really from here, it bein' a tourist town and all. I'm from Ireland, myself."

And then, without thinking, I said, "Are you, now?"


... in an IRISH DIALECT.

The Irish dialect I'd studied in grad school last semester. The one that ISN'T VERY GOOD.

And in the millisecond after I did it, I was MORTIFIED. Not only because I'd blown my cover as an Italian, but also because the guy probably thought I was mocking him or something.

He said, "Wait, what did you just say? You sounded Irish there for a second."

I don't know what possessed me to do so, but I returned to my Italian accent, and said, "Oh, yes, well, I have a friend who is from Ireland, and sometimes it is easier for her to understand my English if I try to talk the way she does."

And the guy TOTALLY BOUGHT IT. No, seriously. TOTALLY BOUGHT IT.

And I saw that the Kiwi, the Brit, the Geek, and Two-Shots-Up were all conversing with his big group of compatriots, and therefore wouldn't call my bluff...

So I continued my ruse.

STEVE: My name's Steve. What's yours?
ANGELA: Angela. (Thank God I have an Italian name)
STEVE: So Angela, do you have any friends in other places?
ANGELA: (switching to RP British dialect) I have some friends in England, actually.
STEVE: That's AMAZING! Anywhere else?
ANGELA: (switching to general New York dialect) And I do have the one friend in Long Island...
STEVE: OH MY GOD. You sound like you're in a movie or something.
ANGELA: (switching to Tennessee dialect) And my one friend is from way back home in Tennessee...
STEVE: Wait... Wait... You're not really an Italian, are you?
ANGELA: (switching to a Midwestern dialect) Maybe I am, and maybe I'm not.
STEVE: Well, what are you?
ANGELA: (switching to my real dialect, which is a pretty standardized form of American, thanks to my theatrical training) You tell me.
STEVE: OH MY GOD, You're really feckin' with my head here.
ANGELA: (switching back to Irish dialect) Oh, am I now?
STEVE: That's seriously good! Oh my God.
ANGELA: (switching back to Italian)Thank you kindly.
STEVE: Well, I'm guessin' you're an American, because you know a lot of those...
ANGELA: (switching back to New York) But which American is it?

This went on for a few more minutes before Steve guessed correctly.

This story is so much better told in person, but I felt the need to share it with you, as it's easily one of the most entertaining pranks I've ever pulled.

It led to Steve trying to convincing me to pull the same trick on his friends, and then Two-Shots-Up not knowing what I was doing and calling me out on it. The group Steve was with? A bunch of guys who were traveling solo and had met each other in a hostel in Florence. They had gotten along so well that they decided to go to Cinque Terre together. They made me guess their accents one by one. I got Irish, Scottish, British, Australian, and New Zealand... but one stumped me. Spencer sounded like an American (a mix between Californian and Midwestern), but said he wasn't one. It turned out he was from the Bahamas, but his mother was born in Iowa, so he doesn't even sound like a normal Bahamian.

Steve the Irishman, Spencer the Bahamian, and Reece the Aussie decided to join our merry bandwagon to the rocks. It was most fortunate, as they unknowingly cock-blocked the randy Kiwi (who at that point was hitting on Two-Shots-Up and I interchangeably) and the middle-aged Manchester cyclist (who seemed quite keen on Two-Shots-Up). It was a beautiful night, and we just stayed out for awhile. More near each other than with each other. It was nice.

The next day, we ran into Steve, Spencer, and Reece randomly. Steve was about to go back to Ireland, and the others were waiting with him outside the main office of the hostel with his baggage until it was time for him to catch the train. So we sat on the cobblestone road and waited with them. After all, we had no other plans (it was most truly a vacation, in a way I don't think I've ever had a vacation before). And that was the beginning of our beautiful friendship.

(Steve the Irishman, Reece the Aussie, and Spencer the Bahamian)

We ended up going to the rocks with Spencer and Reece, eating fresh fruit that we'd purchased at a market in town. I bought a plum and a lemon (which I was told would be sweeter than an American lemon... It wasn't. But I ate it anyway.)

(Spencer titled this photo "Angela con Limon" on facebook)

I wore my polka dot bikini without being self-conscious whatsoever: after all, I'd never see any of the people in Cinque Terre again (with the exception of Two-Shots-Up, but I'd been sharing rooms -- and beds -- with her for 7 weeks at that point, so I didn't care).

(Spencer, Reece, and Two-Shots-Up climbed down the giant rocks to get to the water)

Reece convinced me to get in the water. It was terrifying at first, with all the rocks around, but it became fun. We found slimy rocks to touch down on so that we weren't treading water the whole time. It was... nice. I don't know. Calm. And it was nice to not want to flirt or impress anyone. And my social anxiety didn't come out at all.

(self-portrait)

The boys told us about a photo they'd taken the day before that had an accidental photo-bomb in it. Eventually, they showed it to us. So now, I'll show it to you.

(It was supposed to just be a photo of how Spencer couldn't get his suntan lotion to blend in. But no. So much better and more awkward. They insist that they didn't notice the orange beach towel woman there until they were looking back at the photos later in the day.)

And then later, Two-Shots-Up and I had a fun little impromptu modeling session while Spencer took photos of us being as goofy as is humanly possible.





When we left the beach, we all went to a few grocery stores together and bought ingredients to cook our own dinner. I was in charge of the pasta (because, as an Italian, it's the one thing that I can cook... and I always make it perfectly. It's genetic). Two-Shots-Up made Sangria and sausages. We put mozzarella and antipasti in our pasta, along with some sauce the boys had made. And we had SO MUCH FOOD that we ended up sharing with all of our hostel-mates.

(I was REALLY excited about the Nutella glass with cartoon characters on it.)

(Two-Shots-Up's homemade Sangrias. They were potent.)

It's hard to explain how the town is set up, and where our hostel was... But basically, there was a narrow staircase from the town leading to the beach, and at one of the landings of the staircase where it took it's final turn, the door to our hostel room opened onto the landing. It wasn't the MAIN staircase to the beach... so we all sat on the stairs. And ate our food. And talked, joked, laughed, and sang. And the food was DELICIOUS! And people were going nuts over the Sangria. And every time someone started coming our way on the stairs, one of the Aussies yelled "CAR!", and we all picked up our dishes and stood against the wall so that the walkers could pass. I can't tell you how much fun it was. One of my favorite things that happened on my whole trip.

(Two-Shots Up, Reece, and Spencer in the narrow stairs. Kate, whose knees you see, was sitting in our doorway.)

I remember going out for drinks. The Aussies told us that they had gotten Nutella Daiquiris the night before (I was never able to obtain one, but doesn't it sound awesome?). So we decided to find another local drink... And we did. The Gelato Cocktail. Mine was mint and chocolate, making it more of a Grasshopper Milkshake than a cocktail. It was still a lot of fun. :)

(Spencer, Em, Two-Shots-Up, Reece, & Katie walking through a piazza over the road)

At one point, everyone started giving each other back-rubs. I don't remember how it started. Because of my back problems, I spent many years of my life not letting people touch my back. I even had to be careful when hugging people. During my first year of graduate school, my body became so knotted and warped that my Movement Professor said I was banned from participating in class until I got a full-body deep-tissue massage (no joke), so that was the first time I let someone massage me. It was terrifying, but ultimately a good experience. And grad school in general has both healed my back and also made me a lot less fearful than I used to be... so I've let people touch me more.

Anyway. Spencer the Bahamian was getting a reputation amongst the girls as being terrible at back-rubs. So he came over to me, where he could get a back-rub without giving one in return. One of my best friends from college (Greg) was a baseball pitcher, and taught me how to manipulate his upper back and shoulders, so I just do that on everyone now. Spencer not only seemed to love it, but he wanted to try. So I let go of my fear and said he could try on me. And, shockingly, he was doing great. It felt good. And I commented as such.

And then Two-Shots-Up shoved me out of the way and demanded that he work on her back instead. I was taken aback, of course. She said, "He owes me." It was weird. But whatever.

I believe that was the night we watched the World Cup game between the USA and Ghana. Two-Shots-Up had lived in Ghana for a year in undergrad, so she was rooting for them. And plenty of the people we were with were happy to root against the USA (mostly the Aussies, for some reason). But the majority of the people at the bar were American, and we're too pleased when Two-Shots-Up led the cheering section (in a clearly American dialect) whenever Ghana did something right. (Ghana won the game, in case you're as out of the sports loop as I normally am).

I walked up a hill with my laptop during the game to try to Skype with Phil. I found wifi. I didn't find Phil. I was a little grumpy as a result. The whole gang ended up in my hostel room trying to figure out what to do next, but I ended up passing out on top of my covers while they talked. Two of the Aussie girls tucked me in, and they all headed out to a beach (where they apparently all cuddled for warmth until they fell asleep). I'm glad I finally caught up on a little sleep. I think I needed it.

The next day, Two-Shots-Up and I decided to attempt the hike between the five towns. We took the train to Monterosso (the 1st town). We shopped around the old town and new town (Monterosso seems to be the biggest of the towns, and is divided in two parts). Then we started the hike to Vernazza.

What we didn't know: the hike from Monterosso to Vernazza is the hardest of the four hikes. OH. MY. GOD. It felt like we were going uphill forever. There was a staircase that felt never-ending (I kept thinking I could see the top... I was wrong at least 4 times. No joke). It was gorgeous, of course. But I'm not an athletic person, and it was VERY hot. I ended up stripping down to my bikini after the first 1/4 of that trail, and I was STILL hot (and I'm the sort of person who normally runs cold). I've never sweat so much in my life. And some of the trail was narrow and really quite treacherous. I almost fell down the mountain about 4 times.

(The never-ending staircase. This was about half-way up it. And no, that thing that you think is the top is NOT the top.)

In the end, it was worthwhile. We were surrounded by so much beauty. The vineyards. The ocean. The towns. It was a lovely little adventure.

(The vineyards we walked through)

(A waterfall next to one of the safer -- yet still narrow -- parts of the path)

(Vernazza, from the trail)

When we got to Vernazza, we randomly ran into Spencer and Reece. We ended up getting dinner with them at a seafood restaurant (I don't eat seafood... I can't remember what my compromise was) that had a television so that Two-Shots-Up could watch whatever World Cup game was on that night. The conversation wasn't quite as free-flowing as it had been. Something seemed a little off, and I didn't know why.

We ended up getting gelato cocktails and gelato sandwiches (it's like an ice-cream sandwich, except instead of cookies it's in a croissant, and instead of ice cream it's gelato... and it's delicious) and sitting on the cobblestone road with all the Aussie and Kiwi girls. Two-Shots-Up had gone off drinking wine with one of the Kiwis and a couple of native Cinque Terre men. We were laughing, joking, talking... And eventually giving each other back-rubs. Actually, that's not entirely true... It was mostly just me giving other people back-rubs. (I like doing it. I don't know why. Just do.)

Eventually, other people joined in, and we had a little rotation going. I wasn't getting back-rubs, but Spencer the Bahamian insisted on giving me one, as he hadn't gotten to "repay" me from before. So I agreed. He was doing quite well. And about 30 seconds into it, Two-Shots-Up showed up, out of nowhere, and once again shoved me away from him and took my place.

"Seriously?"

"What?" She seemed oblivious to the fact that she had just knocked me onto the cobblestone paved.

"Did you seriously just do that AGAIN?"

"He owes me."

"For what?"

"I need this," she said. "Besides, you don't even like back-rubs."

"Don't tell me what I like."

"You wouldn't be able to tell Phil about it anyway."

"What? Why not?"

"Just stop making such a big deal out of it."

So I dropped it. She was drunk, if rude. I didn't understand her comment about Phil. It wouldn't have been any sort of betrayal, as it meant nothing.

Eventually the one cop in town told us to get off of the street, so we headed down to the rock beach. Two-Shots-Up came with us, but quickly disappeared with the Kiwi girl, apparently in search of some hot Italian she'd seen that night. So I ended up laying on some hugely uncomfortable rocks with Reece the Aussie, Spencer the Bahamian, and Kate the Aussie. Kate's from Melbourne and Reece is from Sydney, so they had this huge rivalry, and just kept doing that weird flirt-fighting thing that people do that I've never really understood or felt compelled to participate in. I moved over next to Spencer and just looked at the stars in the dark, clear night.

The next thing I remember was waking up in the dark, cuddling with Spencer. The others had left. I was in an incredibly uncomfortable position. I woke Spencer, but he was pretty out-of-it. We walked back to our respective hostel rooms.

In the morning we said goodbye to Reece and Spencer, and we decided to head back to Monterosso. As we were waiting for the train, I tried to make small talk with Two-Shots-Up, but she was clearly in a bad mood. I tried to be positive and keep things light, as I always do, until she cut me off.

"I've been having a problem with you," she said, looking away from me.

So I decided to be open to whatever she was going to say. We had one more day together, and it seemed like the easiest course to take.

She proceeded to tell me many things. Some of them made more sense to me than others. But the gist of things is that she thinks sometimes I try too hard. And that I'm an attention whore. And that I flirt with everyone. And that I'm constantly trying to fight with her for other people's attention. And that I don't really listen when people speak to me.

To be honest, about 90% of the things that she was having "problems" with were things that I had mentally accused her of as well.

It's strange to be confronted with someone else's perception of you, particularly when it doesn't align with your own. In some ways, it wasn't much different from how strange I felt when Ryan the Kiwi wanted me to be a Naughty Librarian. It makes me want to correct the other person. But perhaps what I should be doing is trying to see why they came to that conclusion about me in the first place.

So I took all of her criticisms without flinching. I didn't get defensive. I tried not to get offended. I apologized. I thanked her for bringing things to my attention. I thanked her for her honesty, and her bravery (as I imagine it wasn't easy for her to raise all these points that had clearly bothered her... after all, I hadn't said anything to her about the things she did that bothered me). And I said I'd work on everything.

They say that you're likely to be bothered by things that others do if they're issues you have yourself. Maybe Two-Shots-Up and I are too alike.

But then, she wasn't the one who fell asleep on the beach cuddling with a stranger the night before. So maybe I am everything she said. I don't know.

The rest of the day was fine. Once she got everything off her chest, she returned to being the lovely, happy, caring person that she had been in Santorini. We shopped in Monterosso. We took the train to Manarola (town #4) for dinner, gelato, and the sunset. And it was great.

(a statue of a local goddess, with Manarola in the background)

The restaurant we stopped at for dinner was super-cute. And the waiter asked us if we wanted to hang out with him when he got off of his shift. It's not the sort of thing I would have normally agreed to, but Two-Shots-Up is a more spontaneous girl than I am... So we agreed. She and I walked from Manarola to Riomaggiore on the easiest part of the hike: "The Lover's Walk". It was easy to be friends.

(The Lover's Walk. It's built into the mountain. This was, unfortunately, the best picture I could get with my point-and-shoot at that hour of the night.)

We met our waiter at a bar there with some of his friends. They spoke varying amounts of English, all with thick Italian accents (and the guy who claimed to speak the most English -- and who told us he TAUGHT English -- was actually the most difficult to understand). I spoke in half-English, half-Italian with the waiter. Two-Shots-Up spoke in mostly-English with one of his friends, and occasionally threw out a few words of Spanish, hoping that he'd understand them. We all did splendidly, I thought.

I was somewhat self-conscious throughout the encounter. I went out of my way to not do anything that might be perceived as flirtation. I avoided it to the point that I stopped feeling like myself. But I felt as though I had something to prove to Two-Shots-Up.

As the guys left, I asked Two-Shots-Up how I had done. She said, "I can't tell you that. You have to learn what feels right to you."

That only served to confuse me. What feels right to me is exactly what she said was wrong to her. I didn't push the issue.

We climbed into our beds earlier than usual so that we could head out in the morning. And I counted the hours until I would be in London, with Phil once again. And suddenly nothing else mattered.

I don't always know who I am. I don't always know how what I'm doing looks to other people. I'm not always the person I think I am, or the one I wish I could be.

In Cinque Terre, I found a little piece of myself. I didn't care about the passage of time. I wasn't nervous in big groups of people, where most were strangers. I ate gelato twice a day without beating myself up over it. I finally learned how to take a vacation.

Maybe what I really did was get in touch with my Italian side.

I am, after all, a pretty convincing Italian.

Just ask Steve the Irishman.



To be continued...



No matter what people think you may be, may you always be exactly what you want to be.

~A~




P.S. "When we see men of a contrary character, we should turn inwards and examine ourselves." - Confucius

Monday, August 9, 2010

Be Back Soon

(a picture I took of a double-rainbow a couple of weeks ago in CT. )

I went to Florida and moved into the big bedroom of my condo, which is reserved for the 3rd-year student.

Brian came to visit me in Connecticut for a few days.

I went to NYC to visit some friends.

I've been picking up hours at the store I work at whenever I can.

And those are only some of the reasons I haven't blogged.


Part of it is because I'm enjoying living in the present, which makes it hard to blog about the past. I was in Cinque Terre (which will be the next installment of Whirled World) over a month ago.

But, paradoxically, I feel like I can't fill you in on the present until I fill in the gaps of the past...

Curses.

Forgive the delay. But know that I haven't forgotten about you, blogging world. I'll be back. And the story will go on.


~A~